A Nordic forestry machinery manufacturer came to us with a remote control that failed every winter. The remote controlled a timber crane mounted on a forwarder, and the operator worked outdoors at temperatures down to minus 30 degrees Celsius. The remote used standard silicone rubber keypads, the same part used indoors. The customer assumed silicone stayed soft at any temperature. It does not: silicone rubber hardens as it cools, and at minus 30 degrees a Shore A 50 keypad feels like a rigid plastic plate. The operator pressed the buttons, the metal domes under the silicone did not snap, and the crane did not respond. On the coldest mornings, three of the eight buttons failed to actuate until the operator warmed the remote in a pocket for ten minutes.
We redesigned the keypad with a thin FPC heater bonded under the silicone. The heater draws 1.5 watts from the remote battery and warms the keypad to above zero within two minutes of switch-on. The operator feels the same tactile click at minus 30 as at room temperature. The next winter had zero cold-weather complaints. That project is the subject of this release. When you specify silicone keypads for winter field equipment, the silicone material alone does not guarantee operation; the temperature of the keypad surface determines whether the domes snap.
This release compares standard, heated and jacketed silicone keypads on the parameters that matter in cold climates, and maps each construction to the winter temperature range it covers.
Why silicone goes stiff in the cold
Silicone rubber is specified by its Shore A hardness at room temperature. At minus 30 degrees, the same material measures about 15 degrees harder on Shore A. The actuation force rises with hardness, and a keypad rated at 180 grams at 20 degrees requires 260 grams at minus 30. The operator wearing work gloves cannot apply that extra force through the thick glove, and the dome does not snap. The dome itself still works; the silicone over it has become too stiff to transmit the press.
There are three ways to fix this. The cheapest is a neoprene jacket over the remote that traps body heat when the remote is not in use, but the keypad is exposed the moment the operator uses it. The next is a thicker silicone with a lower glass-transition temperature, which stays softer in cold, but it softens in summer heat. The most robust is a thin FPC heater bonded under the keypad, which holds the silicone above its cold-hardening point regardless of the outside temperature. Each construction costs more and suits a different winter exposure.

The FPC heater sits under the silicone and warms the keypad surface; the dome under the silicone still provides the tactile click.
Standard vs heated vs jacketed silicone keypad: comparison table
| Parameter | Standard keypad | Jacketed keypad | FPC-heated keypad |
|---|---|---|---|
| Min operating temp | Minus 10 C | Minus 20 C | Minus 40 C |
| Warm-up time | None | Body heat, slow | 2 minutes |
| Power draw | Zero | Zero | 1.5 W |
| Actuation force at minus 30 | 260 g, hard | 220 g, stiff | 180 g, normal |
| Relative cost | Lowest | Moderate | Higher |
| Best fit | Indoor, mild winter | Occasional winter use | Year-round winter field |
How the FPC heater integrates
The heater is a thin flexible printed circuit with a copper trace pattern that acts as a resistive heater. The FPC is bonded under the silicone keypad, between the silicone and the PCB that holds the metal domes. A thermistor on the FPC senses the keypad temperature, and a simple controller switches the heater off once the surface reaches zero degrees. The heater draws 1.5 watts, which is negligible against a remote that already runs radio and motor-control electronics. The dome sheet array sits between the heater FPC and the contact PCB, so the domes still close reliably on the pads.

The metal domes under the heated silicone snap at the rated force once the FPC heater has warmed the keypad surface.
Which construction for which cold climate
Indoor equipment, mild winters, warehouse remotes - standard. A warehouse remote, an indoor intercom or a control panel that never sees below minus 10 degrees uses a standard silicone keypad. The standard keypad is the lowest-cost choice, and the lack of heater does not cause a field failure. This is the rare case where standard is the right answer.
Occasional winter outdoor use, construction site remotes - jacketed. A construction site remote that sits in a truck cab and comes out for short shifts at minus 15 degrees benefits from a neoprene jacket. The jacket traps residual warmth, and the keypad stays soft enough for the operator. This is the covered-winter choice.
Year-round winter field, forestry, mining, arctic equipment - FPC-heated. A timber crane remote, an arctic mining controller or an outdoor oilfield panel that runs at minus 30 every morning needs the heated keypad. The heater warms the surface in two minutes, and the operator gets the same tactile click as in summer. This is the construction that fixed our Nordic forestry customer's winter complaint.
Selection checklist
1. Minimum ambient temperature. If the equipment never sees below minus 10, standard. If it sees minus 20 for occasional shifts, jacketed. If it runs below minus 30 daily, heated. This single question rules out two options.
2. Available power budget. A battery-only remote with a slim reserve may not tolerate a 1.5 W heater for ten minutes a day. Check the battery capacity against the heater duty cycle. A remote plugged into vehicle power has no constraint.
3. Glove use. Operators wearing winter gloves need a clear tactile click. A stiff standard keypad at minus 30 feels like a solid block through a glove. The heated keypad restores the 180-gram click the operator can feel.
4. Warm-up expectation. If the operator must start work within two minutes of switch-on, the heated keypad is required. If a ten-minute pocket warm-up is acceptable, the jacketed keypad is cheaper.
5. Heater control. Specify a thermistor-controlled heater that switches off above zero. A heater that runs continuously wastes battery and overheats the silicone in summer.
Common selection mistakes
The first mistake is specifying a standard silicone keypad for minus 30 operation. The forestry customer's winter complaint started exactly this way. Silicone is not unaffected by cold; it hardens and the actuation force rises. The keypad must be rated for the minimum temperature, not the room-temperature hardness.
The second mistake is choosing a softer Shore A 30 keypad thinking it will stay soft in winter. A softer keypad feels better at room temperature but softens further in summer heat, wears fast under gloves, and still hardens at minus 30. The hardness does not solve the cold problem; the heater does.
The third mistake is specifying a heater with no thermistor. A heater that runs flat-out warms the keypad above 40 degrees in summer, degrades the silicone, and drains the battery. Specify a controller that cycles the heater between zero and five degrees.
The fourth mistake is ignoring the dome under the silicone. The heater warms the silicone, but the membrane switch contacts under the dome also need to stay warm. Specify a heater FPC that covers the dome area, not just the top surface.
What we supply and test
At Shanyo we produce standard, jacketed and FPC-heated silicone keypads in Shore A 30 to 70, with the heater FPC bonded under the silicone and a thermistor on the flex. Heated keypads are tested to the rated minimum temperature in a thermal chamber: we hold the keypad at minus 40, switch on the heater, and measure the surface temperature and actuation force after two minutes. The test report ships with the order. Prototype keypads ship within 48 hours from a drawing.
Shanyo manufactures custom OEM and wholesale silicone keypads for forestry, mining, oilfield and cold-climate industrial equipment, with IATF 16949 quality systems covering automotive programs. Send us your minimum ambient temperature, glove condition and battery budget, and our engineering team will recommend the standard, jacketed or heated construction and quote factory pricing. Contact Shanyo for a sample heated keypad and a winter field evaluation.
Cost trade-off, stated plainly
A standard silicone keypad is the lowest-cost option because there is no heater, no thermistor and no bonded FPC. A jacketed keypad adds a neoprene cover and a tighter seam, a modest per-piece increase. A heated keypad adds the heater FPC, the thermistor, the controller and the assembly step, and the per-piece cost is noticeably higher. On an eight-button forestry remote, the gap between standard and heated is a small fraction of the finished remote cost.
The mistake buyers make is reading that gap on the quote and specifying standard keypads everywhere. The correct comparison is the cost of a winter warranty return: a crane operator who cannot start the forwarder at minus 30 stops work, and the dealer sends a replacement remote in a hurry. One avoided winter stoppage pays for the heater on thousands of remotes. For an indoor remote that never sees frost, the standard keypad is the right economic choice.
There is also a battery consideration. A 1.5 watt heater running for ten minutes a day adds a small daily drain, but the thermistor switches it off once the keypad reaches zero, so the average duty cycle is below two minutes. On a remote that already runs eight hours a day on a rechargeable battery, the heater drain is well within the overnight charge. For a battery-only remote that must run a full shift without recharge, size the battery against the heater duty cycle before locking the design.
What we ask for before recommending a construction
To recommend standard, jacketed or heated, we need four inputs: the minimum ambient temperature, whether the operator wears winter gloves, the available battery power and the expected warm-up tolerance. With those four numbers we can rule out the wrong construction immediately and recommend the solution that fits. Missing the minimum-temperature input is the most common reason a first keypad comes back with cold-weather complaints, because the buyer specified a standard keypad for a minus 30 forestry remote without telling us.
Life and field reliability
The heater does not change the silicone's feel at room temperature, but it changes how the keypad behaves over a winter season. A heated keypad holds its actuation force within spec for the product life, because the surface stays above the cold-hardening point. A standard keypad starts soft, hardens in winter, and the operator presses harder to make it snap, which wears the dome faster. For a product expected to run for years in a cold climate, the heated keypad is the more reliable choice even if the silicone itself is identical.
Heater FPC, thermistor and bonding details
Beyond the heating, the keypad must seal to the housing, bond the heater FPC to the silicone, and exit through a strain relief that survives cold. We bond the heater FPC to the underside of the silicone in a single heat step, place the thermistor at the center of the keypad where the operator presses, and route the heater leads through the same strain relief as the signal leads. The flange is molded to ±0.2mm tolerance and sealed with a perimeter gasket, so cold air and road salt do not reach the PCB. The result is a keypad that the buyer drops into the housing and screws down, with no separate heater to install or calibrate on the production line.
We also run thermal cycling on the heated keypad: minus 40 for four hours, then switch on the heater, then cycle back. The bonding between the FPC and the silicone survives the cycle, and the actuation force stays within ±10 grams of the rated value after fifty cycles. This test is part of the approval, so the buyer sees the keypad survive a simulated winter before tooling is locked.
For buyers who need a sample before tooling, we ship a heated keypad on a demo controller so the customer can feel the click at room temperature and then in a freezer.
- John Smith, Senior Application Engineer, Shanyo Precision Electronics, Qingdao

